Any cultural survival guide for visitors to Japan will tell you many things one should refrain from doing in public places such as on the street or subway, including eating and blowing one’s nose. When it comes to eating however, there are two notable exceptions: ice cream is basically acceptable anytime and anywhere and significant train journeys, particularly on the shinkansen, call for a special train lunch box, the ekiben.
Now Japan Rail East is encouraging the breaking of another social taboo, public alcohol consumption, with the launch of “Premium Can Wine,” designed for exclusive sale on shinkansen and limited express trains. Available in white or red, the wine comes from Monde Vineyard in Yamanashi Prefecture, Japan’s small wine producing region.
The product, developed by JR Group’s Nippon Restaurant Enterprise, draws on the Japanese affinity for drinks in cans and the recent trend towards pairing wine appropriately matched for Japanese flavors with traditional food. Priced at ¥500 ($4.95), this 300ml “civilized” canned beverage includes a cup.
The same organization also reminds us that October 14th is Railway Day, in honor of which an Ekiben Fair was held at Tokyo station over the preceding three-day weekend. Visitors could choose from over 70 different lunch box sets specific to different regions and railways on the JR East map.
Many train stations are well-known for their ekibens, which have been drawing on the inclusion of famed local ingredients long before it was fashionable. Examples include the Ishikari salmon ekiben from Sapporo and the Masuno (trout) sushi ekiben from Toyama.
Update: I apologize for not making my point clearly. It is this: thanks to the ekiben, the Shinkansen has been a place exempt from the general taboo about eating in public. (The ekiben is noteworthy in that it appeals to all segments of the population, not just the salarymen who are typically the ones drinking on the train.) However, by marketing a drink specifically for sale on the trains (rather than just selling beer), JR has turned the Shinkansen into a more emphatic exemption and a niche market. I would also like to speculate that this product is targeting women, a segment of the Shikansen riding population that I don’t think you typically see downing beers.
“another social taboo, public alcohol consumption”
Not sure where you get this from, as public consumption of alcohol could only barely be considered a taboo in Japan, and on shinkansen it is almost expected that people will want to drink alcohol—available from carts much the same way it is on aeroplanes.
Hi GAPS,
Thank you for commenting. I agree that the shinkansen is a noted exception in terms of alcohol consumption, as it is for public eating. Although I am curious as to what you base the idea that consuming alcohol in public places is acceptable. Public drunkenness might be a common sight in Tokyo, though I believe there is a difference between acceptance and just turning a blind eye to this. I also think it is rare to see people walking down the street with an open beer can or cracking one open on the subway.
On the other hand, if you would like to discuss this further, I stand ready to be corrected.
Kind regards,
Rebecca
Rebecca,
If you “agree that the shinkansen is a noted exception in terms of alcohol consumption,” then why did you just write that JR is “encouraging the breaking of a social taboo, public alcohol consumption” for drinks exclusively sold on shinkansen and limited express trains?
I guess, in reality, it’s not that big of a deal, but a lot of people unfamiliar with Japan can get an incorrect image of Japanese culture from little mistakes like that. Someone in your position needs to be careful, right?
Because marketing a product specifically for drinking on trains takes the act from something that is permitted as an exception to something that is promoted. I thought this was noteworthy, though I apologize if my wording did not make this point clear.
-Rebecca
Alcohol has always been promoted on the shinkansen. For years there have been railway employees pushing a cart up and down the aisle attempting to sell (i.e. promote) alcoholic drinks, including wine.
That being said, I wish I had gone to the ekiben fair… Oh well, maybe next time.
Let’s talk about another question. Wine’s acidic, how would putting wine in a can NOT impart a metalic taste in the wine…?
Phaedrus441,
Have you seen other alcoholic beverages designed exclusively for and sold only on the shinkansen? This I would like to know, and would stand corrected!
Samuel,
The cans are specially designed, although the press release does not explain in detail exactly how, to prevent damaging the taste.
Thank you for reading,
Rebecca
Yikes, I guess other people read your blog, too:
http://www.japundit.com/Japan/Drinking-on-the-Shinkansen-a-new-innovation
Jeez. I never thought I’d have to step in on a blog post about canned wine, but here it goes:
There’s nothing taboo about drinking wine on the shinkansen, as has been mentioned multiple times and (I think) Rebecca has agreed to. I can’t count the number of beers I’ve personally consumed on one, sitting next to legions of others doing the exact same thing.
HOWEVER, it’s still true that “public” consumption of alcohol (streets, regular trains) is looked down on as being oyaji behavior.
I think that Rebecca’s main highlight (wine made purely for trains, and in cans no less) has been obscured by a debate on tolerated behavior, yet no one is really debating it much…